Hum

Hum’s origins date back to the early Middle Ages, with its first recorded mention in the 12th century. Built as a fortified hilltop settlement, Hum was designed to withstand invasions and has retained much of its original structure, including sturdy stone walls and two ancient city gates. The town’s compact layout features just two main streets, lined with stone houses that have stood for centuries. Hum’s status as the world’s smallest town is officially recognized, and it proudly embraces this distinction, drawing visitors from around the globe. In the 20th century the population fell, as people left the hill for the towns, and today a handful of families keep the place alive.

The centerpiece of Hum is the Church of the Assumption of Mary, the parish church that stands near the gate, with a sturdy bell tower and a quiet interior. The older Romanesque heritage of the area is also seen in the Church of St. Jerome, located just outside the town walls, a historical highlight featuring Glagolitic inscriptions and medieval frescoes in a picturesque setting among the Istrian fields. The Hum Cemetery and Chapel, with their simple stone graves, offer a quiet and atmospheric view of the past. The Hum Town Gate, the entrance to the town, carries a Glagolitic inscription and a date, and it is the most photographed spot.

One of Hum’s most distinctive attractions is the Glagolitic Alley, the Aleja Glagoljaša, a scenic walkway that connects Hum with the nearby village of Roč. The alley is lined with stone monuments celebrating the Glagolitic script, an ancient Slavic alphabet that played a crucial role in the region’s cultural and religious history. Walking the alley, which takes two to three hours, provides insight into Istria’s linguistic heritage and offers beautiful views of the surrounding hills and forests. Istria was one of the main areas where the Glagolitic script was used for centuries, and the monuments, put up in 1977, commemorate the priests who wrote and taught in it.

Despite its small size, Hum is known for its vibrant local traditions. The town is famous for biska, a traditional schnapps made from mistletoe and local herbs. Visitors can sample biska in the town’s konoba and learn about its production, which is rooted in centuries-old recipes. Franko’s collection of wines and liquors, in the old town, introduces regional drinks, and the Humska Konoba serves local food. Hum also hosts annual events such as the election of the town mayor, a unique ceremony conducted by the town’s male residents using traditional wooden sticks, in which votes are marked as notches on a stick, a custom said to go back centuries.

Exploring Hum is a leisurely affair, with its two streets easily covered on foot. The town’s stone architecture, flower-filled courtyards and panoramic viewpoints create a fairytale atmosphere. Artisans sell handmade crafts and souvenirs, while local restaurants serve Istrian specialties, including truffle dishes, homemade pasta and regional wines. Because the settlement is so small, it is at its best early in the morning or in the evening, when the day visitors have left and the lanes are quiet.

Getting to Hum is straightforward. The town is accessible by car from major Istrian cities such as Pazin, Buzet and Rovinj, with well-marked roads leading through scenic countryside. Parking is available just outside the town walls, as Hum is pedestrian-only. Public transport options are limited, so driving or joining an organized tour is recommended for convenience.

The best time to visit Hum is during the spring, from April to June, and early autumn, from September to October, when the weather is mild, the countryside is lush and the town is less crowded. Summer months are also pleasant, with local festivals and events bringing extra vibrancy to the town. Whether you are drawn by history, folklore or the allure of visiting the world’s smallest town, Hum offers a unique and memorable Istrian stay.