Hum Town Gate

Hum Town Gate is the entrance to Hum, a tiny walled settlement in the hills of central Istria that is often described as the smallest town in the world. Hum stands on a hilltop, surrounded by fields and woods, and it has only a handful of permanent residents, a few dozen at most. Its status as a town goes back to the Middle Ages, when it was a fortified centre with its own administration, and it has kept that title through the centuries because of its history rather than its size. The first mention of the settlement dates back to the early 12th century, and its walls, which enclose a single compact cluster of stone houses, are traditionally dated to a very early medieval period.

The gate is the best introduction. Approaching along the road from the valley, you see a narrow stone opening in the walls, with a plain, strong profile typical of Istrian fortifications. Passing through it feels like crossing a threshold between the open countryside and a very old, enclosed community. Inside, there are two short streets, a small square, a parish church, a bell tower and rows of old stone houses with wooden shutters, all within a space that can be walked in a few minutes. Visitors usually spend about an hour, most of it in conversation, tasting local food or just looking.

The village has strong links to the Glagolitic script, the oldest Slavic alphabet, which was used in Istria for centuries. The Glagolitic Alley, a road lined with monuments that runs between Hum and the nearby village of Roč, celebrates this heritage, and Glagolitic inscriptions can be seen in the churches. The Parish Church of the Assumption of Mary, with its Romanesque origins, and the cemetery chapel, which holds old frescoes, are the main buildings of interest. A local tradition, in which the community chooses its mayor in a lively annual ceremony, adds a touch of humour and pride.

Hum is also known for its food and drink. Taverns and small shops offer truffle cheese, local cured meats, olive oil, wine and a special herbal brandy flavoured with mistletoe, called biska, which is a regional speciality. The surrounding countryside, with its oak woods and fields, is good for gentle walks and cycling, and the town is a convenient stop between the coast and the hill towns of Motovun and Buzet.

The gate and the town suit curious travellers, photographers and food lovers. Visit in the morning or the evening to avoid the busiest tour groups, and park outside the walls.