James Joyce Statue (Café Uliks, Pula)

A bronze statue of the Irish writer James Joyce stands outside a cafe in the old town of Pula, on the pedestrian street near the Arch of Sergii, and it is one of the most recognisable small monuments in the city. The statue shows Joyce in a casual pose, walking or sitting, in his hat and glasses, and visitors often photograph themselves beside it. The cafe next to it is named Uliks, the Croatian form of Ulysses, after his famous novel, and it is the natural place to sit down and think about the writer's connection with Pula.

Joyce came to Pula in the autumn of 1904, when he was twenty-two, with Nora Barnacle, the woman who later became his wife. They had left Ireland together, and he had been promised a job teaching English at a Berlitz school in the city, which was then the main base of the Austro-Hungarian navy. He found the town provincial and was not very impressed, calling it a naval Siberia, and in the spring of 1905, he moved on to Trieste. The stay lasted only a few months, and his teaching involved giving lessons to naval officers, but the episode is remembered in the city, and a plaque on a nearby building marks the period. For a writer who became one of the giants of the twentieth century, it was part of the long years of wandering that shaped his work.

The statue and the cafe are close to Portarata, the square by the Arch of Sergii, and they are part of the usual walking route through the old town. The setting is typical of Pula: Roman monuments beside Habsburg-era buildings and modern shops. The cafe is relaxed and popular with both tourists and locals, and the pavement tables are good for coffee, a drink or people-watching in the evening. Some menus include references to Joyce and Ireland, such as stout beer, which adds a light touch of humour to the place.

The site is free and open at all times, and it is a good meeting point. It takes a few minutes to see, but it is worth stopping for a coffee. Nearby are many of the sights described in this guide, including the Forum, the Temple of Augustus, the Twin Gates, the Roman Theatre, the Arena and the museum of olive oil. Pula's modern literary life includes an annual celebration of Joyce's connection to the city, which may be of interest to readers.

The statue suits literature lovers, photographers and anyone looking for a lively cafe in the old town. Allow ten to thirty minutes.