Labin Town Tower

Labin sits on a hill about 300 metres above the Kvarner coast of eastern Istria in Croatia, a compact old town of stone houses, steep lanes and church towers, rising above the coastal plain and the sea. The Labin Town Tower, which some call the bell tower, is one of the towers that give the old town its silhouette, and a climb to the top is one of the best ways to understand the setting of the place. From the platform, the view stretches over the red-tiled roofs of the old town, across the Istrian countryside of eastern Istria and out over the Adriatic Sea and Kvarner Bay to the islands of Cres and Krk, with the long ridge of Mount Učka rising to the north.

Labin owes its look to centuries of Venetian rule. The town was already important in Roman and medieval times, but it took its present form in the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance, when Venetian officials, local nobles and wealthy families built palaces, churches and gates on the hilltop. The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary’s Birth, which dates from the 14th century in its earliest form, is the main church of the old town and is decorated with a winged lion, the symbol of Venice. The Porta Sanfior gate, dating from the 16th century, marks the way into the old town, and many houses carry coats of arms and dates over their doors.

Towers like this one served several purposes. In earlier times they were lookouts and defensive points, where a watchman could see approaching ships and riders, and they carried bells that signalled the hours, feast days and emergencies. Over time they became symbols of civic pride, and the sound of the bells remained part of the daily life of the town. Climbing a tower in an old town requires a head for heights and a willingness to tackle steep, narrow stairs, but the effort is quickly rewarded.

The old town has more to see. The Labin City Museum is housed in a Baroque palace and presents local history, the Mining Museum has a model mine with tunnels that recalls the coal-mining age of the area, and the Labin Loggia and Outdoor Sculptures dot the lanes. The Labin Coal Mine, in the lower town, shows the other side of the community. Stari trg, the Main Square, is a good place for a coffee after the climb.

Opening times for the tower vary with the season and events, so check locally. The tower suits walkers, photographers and anyone who enjoys a good viewpoint. Go in the late afternoon for the best light over the sea.