Ličko Polje Trail

The Ličko Polje Trail is a cycling route through the countryside around Lovinac, a small village in the Lika region of central Croatia. It is one of a set of four routes in the area, and it takes riders across the Ličko Polje, a broad, flat karst field enclosed by hills and mountains, with the Velebit range rising on the western horizon. Lika is among the least densely populated parts of Croatia, and cycling here means long, quiet roads, wide skies and very few cars, which is exactly the appeal.

A karst field, in Croatian polje, is a large flat basin in limestone country, formed when the rock was dissolved and collapsed over a very long time, leaving a plain with fertile soil. The Ličko Polje is one of the biggest of these, and it has been cultivated and grazed for thousands of years. A stream crosses it, and in wet seasons parts of it may flood. Fields of hay, potatoes and cereals alternate with meadows and woods, and the villages, built of stone and timber, sit along the edges of the plain. The landscape changes with the seasons, from the fresh green of spring to the golden hay of summer and the muted colours of autumn.

The route links a number of heritage sights, which give it a historical thread. A hillfort of the Japodi, an Iron Age people who lived in Lika and left walls and burial mounds across the region, stands at Cvituša, and the foundations and ramparts of the fort can be seen on the hilltop. A stretch of Roman road has been reconstructed, showing how the Romans built their roads of layers of stone and gravel, and it gives a sense of the long history of travel across this region. A watermill known as Travić mill and a small stone tower called Zdunić tower are other points on the map, and the village itself retains some traditional buildings.

Bicycles can be rented locally through the agricultural cooperative in Lovinac, which makes it easy to try the route without bringing your own, and the staff can advise on current conditions. The route can be ridden at any time of year when the roads are clear, though spring to autumn is best, and it is suitable for people of moderate fitness, since the plain is mostly flat, with gentle rises on the margins. Carry water, snacks, a repair kit and sun protection, since services are few, and be aware that weather in Lika can change quickly, with cold nights even in summer.

Allow a half day for a leisurely ride with stops at the sights. The trail suits cyclists, walkers and families who like quiet landscapes, and anyone interested in the ancient history of Lika.