Loggia Square

Oprtalj, which Italians call Portole, is a hill town in northern Istria, set on a ridge above the valley of the Mirna River and surrounded by oak woods, meadows and truffle-bearing forest. It is a quiet place of about a hundred stone houses and a few lanes, and its main public space is Loggia Square, just inside the town gate. The square is small, and its character is set by the Venetian loggia that stands on it, an open arcaded building of the kind that once served as the centre of civic life in towns under the Republic of Venice.

In Venetian Istria, a loggia was where the community gathered. Magistrates held court there, official notices were read out, merchants struck deals and, on feast days, villagers met to dance and celebrate. The Oprtalj loggia dates from the 16th century and has the open arches and plain stone columns that mark the type, with later Baroque touches. Over the centuries the building lost its original role, but it has been preserved and today it houses a lapidarium, a collection of stone fragments from Roman and medieval times, including inscriptions and carved pieces found in and around the town. The collection gives a tangible sense of how old this corner of Istria is, since the Romans farmed the valleys and left traces across the hills.

The square also works as a viewpoint. From its edge, and from the nearby bastion, the land falls away into a wide view of green hills, fields and small villages, with the sea visible on a clear day. In spring and early summer the colours are fresh, and in autumn the woods turn red and gold, and the truffle season brings visitors to the hills. Photographers like the way the arches frame the landscape, and the early evening light turns the pale stone warm.

Oprtalj is known for its peace. Many of its old houses are empty, and some are gradually being restored, while others are slowly being taken back by plants, which gives the lanes a wistful, almost abandoned atmosphere. Nearby sights include the Church of St. Rocco, with its frescoes, Crkva Svete Marije, the Old Abandoned Houses and the old town of Oprtalj itself. The truffle village of Livade lies a short drive away, and local restaurants serve dishes with truffles, homemade pasta and Istrian wine.

The square is free and open at all times, and a visit takes half an hour or so. It suits travellers who like quiet hill towns, photographers and anyone exploring the interior of Istria by car. Check locally whether the lapidarium is open.