Old Abandoned Houses

Oprtalj, known in Italian as Portole, is a hilltop town in the north of inland Istria, perched on a ridge above the valley of the Mirna river. It is one of the quietest of the Istrian hill towns, and the old abandoned houses that survive within its walls are a large part of its atmosphere. Walking through the old centre, you pass houses with empty windows, doors that no longer open, stone walls covered with ivy and gardens that have gone wild, standing right next to restored houses with shutters and flowerpots. The contrast is what gives Oprtalj its character.

The reason for the empty buildings lies in the history of Istria in the twentieth century. After the Second World War, many people left the peninsula's interior, especially the hill towns, in a large wave of emigration and exodus, and in the following decades others moved to the coast and to cities for work. Towns like Oprtalj lost much of their population, and houses that had been lived in for centuries were left to the weather. In more recent years, the area has attracted new residents, artists and people from other countries who have restored some of the buildings, and the town is slowly coming back to life, though many ruins remain.

Oprtalj was a fortified settlement under Venetian rule, and it still keeps elements of that past: remains of the defensive walls, the main town gate, a Venetian-style loggia on the central square, and churches. The loggia and the main square, the church of St. Mary and the church of St. Rocco are listed in this guide as other sights, and together with the abandoned houses they make a short, satisfying walk through the whole town. The old centre is small enough to cover in an hour, but the atmosphere rewards slower exploration.

The best times to visit are early morning and late afternoon, when low light plays across the stone and long shadows fall in the lanes, which is ideal for photography. Please remember that some buildings are private property and may be unsafe, so look from the street and do not enter ruins. The view from the edge of the town over the Mirna valley is worth a stop of its own.

Oprtalj is easiest to reach by car, and it is also on the route of the old Parenzana railway line, now a cycling and hiking trail. The town suits visitors who like quiet places, photography, history and the slower side of Istria. There are few services, so bring water, and check whether any restaurant or konoba is open before you plan a meal.