Oprtalje Oude Stad

Oprtalj, known in Italian as Portole, is a hilltop village in the interior of Istria, and its old town is one of the quietest and most atmospheric in the peninsula. It sits on a ridge above the valley of the Mirna river, about midway between the coast and the higher hills, and the view from its edge sweeps across forests, fields and the distant slopes near Motovun. The old part of the village is small and compact, with only a few dozen permanent residents, and its stone houses, narrow lanes and ruined buildings give it a half-forgotten feeling that many visitors find appealing. Beautifully weathered stone and the silence between the walls are the main draw.

The village's history is tied to Venice, which ruled much of Istria from the 15th century until the end of the republic in 1797. Oprtalj was a fortified settlement with walls, towers and gates, and several of these elements remain, including a clock tower and a bastion. Its small churches hold frescoes from the 14th and 15th centuries, in the Gothic style that spread through Istria, and they are among the reasons for the village's reputation as a hidden art treasure. Many of these chapels are locked most of the time, so visitors often admire only the exteriors. The Church of St. Rocco and the Church of St. Mary are the best-known examples, and enquiries at the local cafés or the tourist information can sometimes lead to a key.

Loggia Square is the centre of the village. It is lined with historic buildings and dominated by the Loggia, a civic arcade from the 16th century, which once served as a meeting place and market and now holds a lapidarium, a collection of carved stone fragments from different periods. Next to it, the remains of the fortifications offer places to sit and look over the landscape. The streets around the square have a few small galleries and workshops of local artists, a restaurant and cafés with outdoor tables where you can sample Istrian wine, truffle dishes and homemade food, so the village is a good lunch stop.

Oprtalj is a pleasant stop on the Parenzana, the old narrow-gauge railway line that once linked Trieste with Poreč and is now a popular cycling and walking trail. The nearby Motovun forest and the village of Livade are known for truffles, and the region is dotted with other hill towns.

It suits walkers, cyclists, photographers and anyone looking for a quiet Istrian village without crowds. Wear comfortable shoes for the cobbles, allow one to two hours and take your time.