Sanctuary of Lady of Shelter

Aljmaš is a Danube village in the extreme east of Croatia, where the Drava flows into the great river, and the sanctuary of Our Lady of Refuge dominates the place. Boats on the Danube can see its tall silhouette from far away, and it is the best-known religious building in the district. The sanctuary is called by several names, among them the Sanctuary of Lady of Shelter, the Church of Our Lady of Refuge and the Marian shrine of Aljmaš, and the Aljmaš Marian Shrine is another name for the same place. What follows is about how it feels to visit.

Approaching Aljmaš, you cross flat, open land, with fields of maize, sunflowers and wheat, and groves of willow and poplar near the river. The church rises from the flat landscape, and the effect is of a vertical accent on a horizontal plain. The building is modern in design, and its form has led some people to compare it with a ship or an ark, a fitting image for a sanctuary dedicated to refuge. Inside, the space is bright and simple, and the atmosphere is calm. Many people come to light a candle, to sit in silence or to take part in services, and the grounds give room for larger gatherings of pilgrims.

The sanctuary is open to visitors during the day, and the grounds are quiet and well kept. A visit typically takes an hour or two, though pilgrims may stay much longer. Outside the church, a path of the Stations of the Cross is laid out in the surroundings, leading uphill toward a large figure of Christ with wide views of the village and the meeting of the two rivers. Details of the route and the carvings are uncertain, so it is best to ask locally when you arrive. The path is gentle, but wear sturdy shoes, and bring water in summer, as shade is limited.

The setting adds to the experience. The confluence of the Drava and the Danube is an important wetland, and the nearby woods and meadows attract birds and wildlife. A walk along the riverbank at sunset, with the water gleaming and the church tower behind, is a pleasant way to end the day. Pilgrims often stay in local guesthouses, and local cooks serve fish, stews and homemade cakes. The villages of Erdut and Dalj and the city of Osijek are within easy reach.

The sanctuary suits pilgrims, quiet travellers and anyone who wants to see a corner of Croatia that few foreign visitors reach. Dress modestly and respect services.