Sljeme Ski Resort

Sljeme Ski Resort is the winter sports centre of Zagreb, set on the upper slopes of Medvednica, the wooded mountain that rises directly north of the Croatian capital. It is unusual in being a ski area that residents can reach from the city centre in less than an hour, so that on a snowy weekend, skiers and sledgers fill the slopes while the streets below are bare. The resort occupies the area around the summit at about a thousand metres, where the northern slope holds snow longer, and it is the place where Zagreb's people go to enjoy winter.

The slopes are modest by Alpine standards but varied enough for beginners and intermediates. The mountain has several runs of different lengths and gradients, served by a number of lifts, and snow-making equipment is used to extend the season when natural snowfall is insufficient. A short, steep piste at the top, known for its tricky sections, has hosted World Cup races, notably the women's slalom of the Snow Queen Trophy, which has been held at Sljeme in recent decades and brings elite skiers and many spectators. Equipment rental and ski schools operate in the season, so beginners can learn on gentler slopes, and mountain huts serve warm food and drinks.

Access to the resort has changed over the years. For a long time, a cable car carried skiers and visitors from the edge of the city to the upper station, and the arrangements for lifts, roads and public transport have been renewed in recent years, so it is best to check the current situation before you set out. Roads to the top can be icy, and winter tyres or chains may be required, and on busy days parking fills up early.

Outside the ski season, the mountain turns green, and Sljeme becomes a destination for hiking, cycling and picnics. Marked trails lead through beech forest to the summit and to the medieval Medvedgrad Castle, which stands on a spur above the city, and to the Puntijarka mountain hut, a favourite place for a meal after a hike. The Veternica Cave, one of the longest caves in Croatia, is within the nature park and can be visited on guided tours at certain times. The nearby television tower and the summit are listed separately in this guide.

Dress warmly in layers, since temperatures on the mountain can be well below those in the city, and carry water, sunscreen and goggles in winter. Opening dates of lifts depend on snow, so check conditions online. The resort suits families, beginners and anyone who wants a short escape from the city in any season. Allow a day for skiing, or half a day for a walk.