Splitska Beach

Splitska is a small village on the north coast of Brač, where Splitska Beach lies, the largest of the islands in central Dalmatia, tucked into a deep, narrow bay with pine woods on both sides. It is a quiet place of stone houses, a small harbour and a handful of taverns, far from the busier resort of Bol on the opposite side of the island. The beach at Splitska is a modest cove on the Adriatic of pebbles and flat rock within the bay, and its charm comes from the setting, with shade from the pines, clear water and a gentle, unhurried pace.

The village has a history that matters well beyond its size. Brač is famous for its white limestone, a fine, hard stone that has been quarried since Roman times, and Splitska was one of the main ports from which blocks were shipped across the sea. The stone was used to build the palace of the emperor Diocletian in Split, and in later centuries it went into countless buildings across Europe. Sailors, stonemasons and shipowners from Splitska were part of that trade, and the village grew prosperous on it. The old stone houses along the shore, often built of the same pale material, tell the story. The church and the waterfront give the village a settled, traditional look, and the lack of large hotels helps to keep it that way.

On the beach, the pleasures are simple. The water is clean and calm, sheltered from the open sea, and deepens quickly enough for a proper swim, while the pines at the back give shade in the heat of the afternoon. The beach is small, so it fills at midday in July and August, and visitors who want more space can walk along the shore to quieter spots among the rocks. Water shoes are useful on the pebbles, and it is wise to bring water and food, although the village taverns serve fresh fish, grilled meat and local wine when you are ready for lunch.

A short walk around the village adds to the visit. The harbour is lined with boats, and a path leads up between houses to viewpoints over the bay. Other places on Brač include Bol Old Town (Stari Grad Bol), the Brač Museum (Muzej otoka Brač) and the Gazivoda Stone Quarry, which show different aspects of the island. The island is reached by ferry from Split, and a road crosses it to Splitska.

The beach suits couples, families with young children and travellers who prefer quiet villages to resorts. Late spring and early autumn are especially pleasant.