Stoncica Bay

Vis Island is the most distant of the inhabited islands in the central Adriatic, lying far out to sea from Split, and for much of the 20th century it was closed to foreigners because it was a military base. That isolation protected the island's coast from development, and bays like Stončica still feel quiet and unspoiled. Stončica lies on the northern shore, not far from Vis Town, and it is known as one of the nicest places on the island for a relaxed swim.

The bay is a gentle curve of shore with shallow, clear water over sand and small pebbles. Sand is a rarity on the Croatian coast, where most beaches are rock or shingle, so the soft bottom is welcome, especially for families with children. The water stays shallow for some way out and warms quickly in summer, giving it a pool-like feel on calm days. Pines and Mediterranean scrub grow close behind the beach, offering shade, and low hills enclose the bay on both sides. The surroundings are simple and green, with the scent of herbs in the air, and the lack of high-rise buildings is part of the charm.

Facilities are modest but welcome. A small beach bar and a family restaurant serve cold drinks, grilled fish and local dishes, and diners can eat with the sea a few steps away. Sailors like the bay as an anchorage because of its shelter, and in summer a few boats lie off the beach. Visitors who come by land can walk, cycle or drive from Vis Town, and local boat operators sometimes include the bay on excursions. It is worth bringing a hat and sun cream, as shade varies, and water shoes can be useful at the edges, where rocks begin.

Vis offers much to combine with a day at the bay. The Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the nearby island of Biševo is reached by boat, Fort George (Fortica) overlooks the harbour, and the Military Tunnel known as Tito's Cave recalls the island's role in the Second World War. Mount Hum is the highest point of the island, and the Roman Baths (Termi Romane) remind visitors of the town's ancient past. Srebrna Bay and Stiniva Cove are other places to swim.

Ferries and catamarans connect Vis with Split, and a car or scooter is helpful for getting around. Stončica suits families, couples and sailors who want a calm swim and a simple meal. Late spring and early autumn are the most peaceful seasons.