Can you kayak into the Blue Cave?
The short answer is no. The Blue Cave (Modra špilja) is on the small island of Biševo, about five kilometres off Komiža on the west coast of Vis. Its famous blue light comes from sunlight entering through an underwater opening and reflecting off the white seabed. Because the entrance is low and narrow, access is controlled: visitors transfer to small official boats at Mezoporat bay on Biševo, where the ticket office is, and are taken inside in groups for a short visit. Private boats, tenders and kayaks are not allowed to enter, and swimming inside the cave is prohibited.
So if you have seen "kayak the Blue Cave" in an advert, read it carefully. What is on offer is either a boat trip that includes the Blue Cave, or a kayak tour around Vis that visits other caves and bays. The good news is that the second option is excellent.
Visiting the Blue Cave itself
Most people reach the Blue Cave on a speedboat tour from Komiža or Vis town, or on longer day trips from Split and Hvar. Tours drop you at Mezoporat, where you buy or show your ticket and wait for your turn. In July and August the wait can easily be an hour or more.
The light is best on a sunny day around late morning to midday, when the sun is high enough to shine through the underwater opening. The cave closes when the sea is rough, because the entrance is too dangerous for the boats, so a trip can be cancelled at short notice. Early or late in the season, mornings are quieter.
Kayaking the coast of Vis
Vis was a closed military island for much of the second half of the 20th century, and its coastline has stayed relatively undeveloped. That makes it a rewarding place to paddle: clear water, limestone cliffs, small pebble coves and very little building along the south coast.
Local outfitters run guided half-day sea kayak tours, typically using sit-on-top and double kayaks with dry containers and life jackets. A common route starts at Rukavac bay on the south coast and follows the shore past Stiniva towards Srebrna beach and the Green Cave on the islet of Ravnik. Half-day tours have recently been priced from around €50 per person, with cave entry fees extra. Tours depend on the weather, and some have minimum age limits for children, so ask when booking.
Stiniva and the south coast
Stiniva is the bay most people recognise from photographs: a pebble beach enclosed by high cliffs, with an opening to the sea only a few metres wide. It has been protected as a natural monument since 1967. Arriving by kayak is one of the nicest ways to see it, as you paddle through the narrow entrance into the enclosed cove. From land, it is reached by a steep path down from the road, and in summer a small fee is often collected to manage visitor numbers.
Nearby, Srebrna (Silver) beach is a long stretch of white pebbles, and Ruda bay and the coves around Rukavac are good places to stop for a swim.
The Green Cave on Ravnik
The Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the islet of Ravnik, just off Rukavac, is the best cave on Vis to visit by kayak. Light falls through an opening in the roof and turns the water an emerald green. Boats and kayaks can enter, and a small entry fee is charged in season, with the amount varying by year. It is often busy around midday in summer, so an earlier tour is calmer.
Safety and practical tips
The sea around Vis is open water. Wind can rise quickly, especially the jugo from the south and the maestral that builds in the afternoon, and the cliffs offer few places to land. Unless you are an experienced sea kayaker with local knowledge, join a guided tour rather than renting a kayak and setting off alone, and never try to paddle across to Biševo.
Bring sunscreen, a hat, water and a dry bag for your phone. Reef shoes help on pebble landings. Vis is reached by ferry or catamaran from Split, with more sailings in summer. Komiža is the closest base for Biševo boat trips, while Vis town has more accommodation and kayak operators on the south coast can arrange pick-ups from both.
