Mljet National Park

Mljet is one of the greenest of the Adriatic islands, a long, narrow island at the southern end of the Dalmatian coast of Croatia, covered by pine woods and low hills. The western third of the island is protected as Mljet National Park, which was established in 1960, and it is built around two connected saltwater lakes, Veliko Jezero (Big Lake) and Malo Jezero (Small Lake). The lakes are not true lakes but flooded karst depressions that are linked to the sea by a narrow channel, so that their water rises and falls gently with the tide.

The setting is calm and unusually beautiful. The lakes lie in a green bowl of pine forest, with small coves, rocky points and clear water that is warmer than the open sea, so that swimming is a pleasure from late spring to autumn. A narrow channel at Mali Most links the two lakes, and the current in it changes direction with the tide. The shore is lined with paths for walking and cycling, and bicycles and kayaks can be hired near the park entrances at Pomena and Polače. The woods hold many kinds of birds, and the island is known for its mongooses, brought in the early 20th century to control snakes, which now roam freely.

In the middle of Veliko Jezero, the Great Lake, lies a small island, St. Mary's Island, once known by the old name Melita, home to a Benedictine monastery founded in the 12th century. The church and cloister rise directly from the water, and the buildings now include a restaurant and a café. Boats take visitors across from the shore, and the trip is included in the park ticket. The monastery is the island's most famous historical building, and its setting is a favourite subject for photographers. Elsewhere on Mljet there are remains from other periods: the ruins of a large Roman palace at Polače (Palača), dating from late antiquity, and the Odysseus Cave, which local tradition links with the Greek hero of Homer's epic, who was said to have stayed on the island with the nymph Calypso. The Coral Reef of Mljet is another point of interest for divers.

Practical arrangements are easy. Tickets are sold at the park entrances and cover the boat to the monastery island, and the park is open through the year, with the busiest season from May to October. Ferries and catamarans connect Mljet with Dubrovnik and the Pelješac peninsula, and a day trip from Dubrovnik is popular, though a longer stay brings more peace.

The park suits families, walkers, cyclists and anyone who likes quiet nature. Bring sun protection, water and a swimsuit.