Motovun Town Walls

The town walls of Motovun encircle one of the most picturesque hill towns of Istria, and walking along them is the best way to see the landscape that has given the region its nickname of Green Tuscany. Motovun stands on a conical hill of about 277 metres above the valley of the Mirna river, and the walls follow the line of the hilltop, enclosing the old town in a compact oval. The fortifications date from the Middle Ages, and they were strengthened and rebuilt over time, especially after the town came under the rule of Venice in the late 13th century. A town gate, a bell tower, several small bastions and a long stretch of stone wall survive, and together they give Motovun its distinctive profile when seen from the road below.

The circuit along the ramparts is short, taking about ten minutes at a relaxed pace, but it is rich in views. On one side lie vineyards, olive groves and fields of the Mirna valley, with oak woods covering the lower slopes, and on the other you look over the roofs of the old town, the church of St. Stephen and the main square. In clear weather, you can see far across central Istria. Access to the walls is by ticket, which is sold at the tourist office, and the walk is easy but includes steps and uneven stones, so shoes with grip are advisable. Along the way, you pass small hidden gardens, and a tower above the outer gate holds an exhibition of landscape photography that shows the region in different seasons.

The old town itself is worth exploring after the walls. Cobbled lanes lead to the main square, where the Communal Palace and the parish church stand, and stone houses with wooden shutters line the streets. Motovun is quieter than the coastal towns, and in the early morning or evening, the only sounds are footsteps and the occasional church bell. The town is also known for its film festival, held in summer, which brings music and cinema to the streets, and for the truffles found in the surrounding forest, which appear on the menus of local restaurants. Truffle hunts with trained dogs can be arranged in the Motovun Forest, and nearby vineyards offer wine tastings, including those at Motovun Vineyard.

Parking is below the walls, and the climb into town takes some effort, though a footpath leads up through the trees. The walls suit photographers, walkers, couples and anyone who enjoys wide views. Visit at sunset for warm light on the stone and the valley below.

Combine the walls with a meal in the old town, and allow an hour or two for the whole visit.