Narrow Streets

The old quarter of Mali Lošinj is a maze of lanes and steps climbing the hillside above the harbour, and it is the best place to get a feel for the town beyond the waterfront. The streets are narrow, paved in stone and often too tight for cars, so walking is the only way to explore, and the pleasure lies in turning corners without a fixed route. Pastel-coloured houses, small gardens, wooden shutters and washing lines line the way, and now and then the lane opens onto a tiny square or a view of the bay.

The layout reflects the history of the town. In the 19th century, Mali Lošinj, on Kvarner Bay, was among the busiest shipping centres of the Adriatic, with a fleet of merchant vessels and shipyards that gave work to a large share of the population. Captains and shipowners built tall, solid houses in the old quarter and along the harbour, and the narrow lanes between them were the daily routes of sailors, craftsmen and families. Many of the houses date from this prosperous period, and their size and detail give a sense of how the town looked when wealth came from the sea. Later, the island became known as a health resort, and villas multiplied in the pine woods around Čikat Bay.

Walking the streets today, you notice the details. Doorways have carved stone lintels, house numbers and dates, and stairways are worn smooth by generations of feet. Small cafés, craft shops and galleries occupy the ground floors of old buildings, and in summer tables spill into the lanes. The streets are the quietest in the morning and become lively in the evening, when residents and visitors walk down to the waterfront for dinner. Wear comfortable shoes, since the steps and cobbles can be slippery.

The lanes link naturally with the town's sights. The Port of Mali Lošinj lies at the bottom of the hill, the Fritzi Palace houses the Museum of Lošinj, and the Apoxyomenos Museum shows the ancient bronze statue found off the island. The Historic Villas in Čikat Bay and the Footpath of Vitality, a path through the woods, are a short walk away, so a stroll through the old quarter fits into a longer day.

The streets suit curious walkers, photographers and families who like exploring on foot. A walk takes an hour or so, depending on how often you stop, and there is no admission fee.