Pakleni Islands

The Pakleni Islands are a chain of small, wooded islets just off the coast of Hvar Town, and they are among the most popular boat destinations in the central Adriatic. They lie in front of Hvar Town, on the south-western tip of the island of Hvar, and they are reached from the Hvar harbour rather than from Stari Grad. The archipelago has about twenty islands and islets, stretching in a line across the channel. The largest is Sveti Klement, and others include Marinkovac, Jerolim, Stipanska and Ždrilca. They are covered with dense pine and Mediterranean scrub, ringed by rocky shores and small pebble coves, and the water around them is clear and a vivid turquoise.

The name often surprises visitors, because pakao means hell in Croatian. The real origin is different. The name comes from paklina, a local word for the resin or tar obtained from pine trees, which was used for waterproofing wooden ships, and it reflects the long maritime tradition of the area. The islands are largely uninhabited, apart from a few small settlements and restaurants, and no cars run on them, so they feel quiet and protected, even though they are only a few minutes by boat from the busy waterfront of Hvar. The pine forests provide shade, and the scent of resin and sea fills the air, particularly on hot days.

The usual way to visit is by taxi boat from the harbour in Hvar Town, a crossing of ten to fifteen minutes, and the boats run frequently in summer. Schedules vary by season and by weather, so check the times and arrange the return before settling in. Access to the islands is free, though some beach clubs and restaurants charge for sunbeds and services, and there are no shops to speak of, so bring water, sun protection and a snack. The islands are good for swimming, snorkelling and walking along simple paths through the pine woods. Some beaches are popular with day visitors and can be crowded in July and August, while others, particularly on the farther islands, remain calm. Jerolim is known as a naturist island, and visitors should be aware of this before choosing a beach.

On Sveti Klement, the bay of Palmižana is home to a botanical garden of exotic and Mediterranean plants, created by a local family, and a few restaurants serve fresh fish and local wine. The village of Stari Grad, the Stari Grad Plain with its ancient Greek field system, and the cathedral and fortress of Hvar Town provide a cultural counterpart on the main island.

The islands suit swimmers, sailors, couples and families who enjoy a day on a boat. The best months are June and September, when the sea is warm and the crowds thinner.