Stari Grad Market Square (Trg sv. Stjepana)

Stari Grad is a small town on the northern coast of the island of Hvar, in central Dalmatia, and it is among the oldest towns in Europe. It was founded in 384 BC by Greek settlers from the island of Paros, who named it Pharos, and it has been inhabited ever since. The old name survives in the Croatian Stari Grad, which simply means Old Town. The town sits at the end of a long, narrow bay, well sheltered from the sea, and its centre is a network of stone streets, small squares and houses that give a sense of continuity with the ancient past. The market square, associated with the name of St. Stephen, is one of the places where the town's daily life comes together, with cafés, benches and stalls.

The square is framed by historic architecture. The parish church of St. Stephen, with a Baroque façade, anchors the space, and the houses around it show Venetian and Renaissance touches, with arched doorways, carved window frames and balconies. The surfaces are stone, the lanes are narrow and shaded, and the atmosphere is relaxed. Locals sit with coffee in the morning, market sellers offer vegetables, fruit, olive oil and lavender products, and in the evening the cafés fill. The square is a pleasant place to rest after a walk, and it is a good starting point for exploring the town's historic sites. Please note that the neighbouring town of Hvar has its own main square with a similar name, so check which one is meant when you ask for directions.

One of the most interesting buildings nearby is Tvrdalj, the fortified summer house of the Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović, built in the 16th century around a fish pond fed by seawater, and decorated with inscriptions and gardens. It is a calm and unusual place, and a visit is highly recommended. The Stari Grad Plain, a fertile field laid out by the Greek settlers in a grid of stone walls and plots, has been protected by UNESCO since 2008 and is one of the best-preserved examples of ancient Greek land division in the Mediterranean. The old stone walls and small huts, known as agroter, can still be seen as you walk or cycle across the plain, past vineyards and olive groves.

From Stari Grad, the island has plenty more to offer. Boat trips go to the Pakleni Islands from Hvar Town, beaches lie along the coast, and the inland villages, with their lavender fields and vineyards, are good for slow exploration. The ferry from Split arrives at Stari Grad, so the square is often the first place visitors see.

The square suits travellers who enjoy living, historic places, couples and families. Visit in the morning for the market, and stay for an evening drink under the old stone walls.