The Old Town

The Old Town of Motovun sits at the top of a steep, cone-shaped hill in central Istria, in Croatia, rising above the valley of the Mirna river and the oak forests that surround it. It is one of the most photographed hill towns in Istria and one of Croatia’s best-known Istrian sights, and from a distance it looks like a crown of stone walls and roofs set on a green slope, with a bell tower marking the summit.

The hill has been settled for a very long time. Traces of a prehistoric hill-fort have been found on the summit, and Roman-era farmers worked the surrounding valley, when olive oil was pressed and clay was dug for amphorae. Motovun appears in written sources as early as the early ninth century, and over the following centuries the town passed through the hands of Byzantine officials, local nobles and the Venetian Republic, which fortified it and ruled it for centuries. The thick town walls that circle the hilltop date from this era, and the stone gates and towers are still part of the visit.

Entering the Old Town through the gate, visitors find a small, compact settlement of stone houses and narrow, cobbled lanes. The main square, named after a Renaissance music printer born in Motovun, Andrea Antico, is the centre of life, with a communal palace on one side and the late Renaissance parish church of St. Stephen on another. The church stands on the site of an earlier Christian basilica, and its bell tower, built separately, is a landmark visible from far away. A walk along the top of Motovun’s town walls is the highlight for many people. It gives a continuous panorama over vineyards, fields and woods, and on clear mornings the views stretch to distant hills in a way that has prompted many comparisons with Tuscany.

The landscape below is as interesting as the town itself. The Motovun Forest, along the Mirna, is one of the best-known truffle-hunting areas in Istria, and local restaurants serve truffle pasta and omelettes in season. Wine growers in the area produce Malvasia and Teran, and vineyards stretch on the hills opposite. In summer the town is known for the Motovun Film Festival, which fills the squares with screenings and concerts, and the nearby Baredine Cave is a short trip for those who like underground sights.

The climb to the top is steep, and many visitors leave their car in the car parks below and walk up, or take a small shuttle in the busy season. Wear comfortable shoes, and expect the cobbles to be slippery after rain. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to avoid crowds and to catch the light on the stone.

Today the Old Town suits history lovers, photographers, food and wine fans and anyone who enjoys a classic hilltop village.