Brač at a glance
Brač is the largest island in central Dalmatia, lying directly south of Split across a short stretch of sea. It is known for two things: Zlatni Rat, the pebble spit near the town of Bol that appears in most photos of Croatian beaches, and Brač stone, a pale limestone that has been quarried on the island since Roman times and used in buildings across the region.
The island has two different sides. The north coast faces Split and has the ferry port of Supetar and several harbour villages. The south coast, where Bol sits, is steeper and sunnier. It looks across to the island of Hvar and is backed by the island's highest ridge.
Getting to Bol
There are three main ways to reach Bol:
- Car ferry from Split to Supetar, a short and frequent crossing operated by Jadrolinija. From Supetar, Bol is about an hour away by car or local bus across the middle of the island.
- Passenger catamaran from Split to Bol, which docks in the harbour and is the simplest option without a car. Check the timetable, as sailings are reduced outside summer.
- Ferry from Makarska to Sumartin on the island's eastern end. This is useful if you are coming from the Makarska Riviera.
Brač also has a small airport above Bol, mainly used by seasonal and private flights.
Zlatni Rat
Zlatni Rat (the "Golden Horn" or "Golden Cape") is a spit of fine pebbles that runs out to sea about 2 km west of Bol harbour. It is a protected geomorphological site. Its tip shifts with currents, waves and wind. In summer, the afternoon maestral usually keeps it straight or bent to the east, while a strong jugo in winter can swing it westward.
Practical points:
- Getting there: a shaded seafront promenade runs from Bol to the beach, and the walk takes 20–30 minutes. A small tourist train also runs in season, and there is a paid car park above the beach.
- The beach: it is pebble, not sand, so water shoes help. A pine grove behind it gives shade. Sunbeds and umbrellas are available to rent, and there are bars and snack kiosks.
- Swimming: the water is clear and gets deep quickly. Currents at the tip can pull swimmers away towards open sea, so don't swim far out from the point.
- Crowds: in July and August, it is busiest from late morning. Early morning or late afternoon is calmer.
Windsurfing and water sports
The channel between Brač and Hvar funnels the summer maestral, which usually rises around midday and blows steadily through the afternoon. This makes Bol one of the best-known windsurfing and kitesurfing spots on the Adriatic. Several schools on the beaches west of Zlatni Rat rent equipment and run lessons for beginners. Mornings, when the water is usually calm, are better for paddleboarding and kayaking.
Bol town
Bol grew up as a fishing and wine village and keeps a compact old centre around its harbour. Things to see include:
- The Dominican monastery on the Glavica headland east of the harbour. It dates from the 16th century and was rebuilt in Baroque style in the 17th, and its church holds an altarpiece attributed to Tintoretto. The monastery has a small museum.
- The Branislav Dešković Gallery, in a Baroque house on the seafront, which shows 20th-century Croatian art.
- Local wine, particularly Plavac Mali, the main red grape of southern Dalmatia, which grows on the slopes around Bol.
Vidova Gora
Above Bol rises Vidova Gora, which at about 778 m is the highest point of any Adriatic island. The summit view takes in Zlatni Rat directly below, Hvar across the channel and, in clear weather, Vis, Korčula and the mainland mountains. You can drive to the top on a road from the interior of the island, or hike up from Bol on a marked trail. The hike is steep and exposed, so start early in summer and carry plenty of water.
Elsewhere on the island
Brač rewards a day with a car:
- Pustinja Blaca, a hermitage built into a cliff by monks in the 16th century and now a museum. It is reached by a footpath from the road above, so allow time for the walk back uphill.
- Pučišća, on the north coast, where stone-carving is still taught at a long-established school, and white stone houses line a deep bay.
- Škrip, one of the oldest settlements on the island, with a small museum of Brač.
- Supetar, Postira, Milna and Sutivan, harbour towns with smaller beaches and an easier pace than Bol.
When to go. Late May, June and September offer warm sea and fewer people than July and August. Many restaurants and services in Bol close or reduce hours between November and March, and ferry and catamaran timetables thin out, so check them before travelling out of season.