Where the Pakleni Islands Are
The Pakleni Islands (Pakleni otoci) are a chain of 16 small islands and islets off the southwest coast of Hvar, directly opposite the entrance to Hvar Town's harbour. The chain is about 10 km long and covers around 7 square kilometres in total. Locals often simply call them Škoji, "the islands".
The name is usually translated as "Hell's Islands", but it actually comes from paklina, an old word for the pine resin once collected here to waterproof ships. The islands are low limestone, covered with Aleppo and black pine, with an indented coastline of coves and rocky points. The highest point is only 94 metres. That geography is exactly what makes them good for swimming: dozens of small bays with clear water close to Hvar Town.
Getting There
In summer, taxi boats leave from the Hvar Town waterfront throughout the day for the most visited islands, especially Jerolim, Marinkovac and Palmižana on Sveti Klement. The crossing is short. Check the time of the last boat back when you buy your ticket, and keep the return ticket safe. Outside the main season, services are reduced or stop.
Alternatives are joining a boat excursion, which usually stops at several coves, or renting a small motorboat in Hvar Town if you have the experience. Sea kayak tours also cross to the nearer islands, a good option for fit paddlers who want to go with a guide.
The Main Islands for Swimming
Sveti Klement is by far the largest island, at about 5.3 square kilometres, and the only one with permanent settlements: Palmižana, Vlaka and Momica Polje. Palmižana has a large, sheltered marina and several bays with beach bars and restaurants, as well as quieter coves reached on footpaths through the pines. Because the island is big, you can walk away from the busiest bays and find space even in summer.
Marinkovac, the second largest island, has a number of bays, some lively with music and beach clubs in high season, others quieter. It is popular with younger crowds.
Jerolim, one of the islands nearest Hvar Town, has long been known for naturist bathing. It is small, wooded and has rocky shelves to swim from.
Most beaches are rock, flat stone slabs or small pebbles rather than sand. Water shoes make entering the sea much easier, especially where sea urchins sit on the rocks.
Snorkelling
The water around the islands is usually clear, and the rocky shores drop away into seagrass meadows and boulders. Expect to see common Mediterranean fish such as bream, wrasse and damselfish, sea urchins on the rocks, and patches of Posidonia seagrass, a protected plant that shelters young fish. The best snorkelling is usually along rocky points and the edges of coves, away from moored boats.
A mask, snorkel and fins are worth bringing from home or buying in Hvar Town. Morning, before the boats and swimmers stir up the water, gives the clearest visibility.
Safety in the Water
The main hazard in the Pakleni Islands is boat traffic. The channels between the islands and the bays are busy with taxi boats, yachts, dinghies and jet skis in summer.
- Use a brightly coloured swim buoy when snorkelling or swimming away from shore.
- Stay close to the coast and inside marked swimming zones where they exist.
- Do not swim across channels between islands.
- Watch the wind: afternoon breezes can make the water choppy, and boat services may be affected in bad weather.
- Avoid stepping on sea urchins; if you are stung by one, remove spines carefully and seek help if the wound becomes inflamed.
What to Bring and When to Go
Shade is limited on the rocks, so take a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water. Food and drinks are available at the busier bays on Palmižana and Marinkovac, but prices reflect the location, and quieter coves have no facilities at all. Take your rubbish back with you.
June and September are the best months for swimming without the July and August crowds; the sea is warm enough for most people from late spring to early autumn. Croatia uses the euro. Carry some cash as well as cards, as taxi boats and small bars may not take cards.
