A city behind its facades
Zagreb's historic centre is built around closed blocks. On the Upper Town hill of Gradec, baroque palaces and townhouses present tidy facades to the street, while behind their gates are courtyards, gardens and terraces that most visitors never see. In the 19th-century Lower Town, large city blocks hide inner yards and covered passages connecting one street to another.
Many of these spaces are private, but some belong to museums, schools and public institutions and can be visited, and for a couple of weeks every summer a whole series of them is opened to the public in the evenings.
Dvorišta: the summer courtyards festival
Dvorišta, meaning "courtyards", is one of Zagreb's best-loved summer events. Each July, the courtyards of historic palaces and institutions in the Upper Town open in the evening, with live music, drinks and food from Zagreb restaurants and bars. Entry to the courtyards is free; you pay only for what you eat and drink. In recent editions the courtyards have been open from 6 pm to midnight over about ten days in mid-July, and the 2024 festival was the tenth.
Venues change slightly each year, but regulars include the atrium of the Zagreb City Museum at Opatička 20, the museum's archaeological garden next door, and the Observatory courtyard beside the medieval Popov Tower. In 2024 the newly renovated Tituš Brezovački grammar school, entered from Jesuit Square, rejoined the programme. Check the festival's official channels for the current year's dates and list of courtyards. It is popular, so expect crowds on warm weekend evenings.
Courtyards you can see year-round
Outside the festival, several Upper Town courtyards are accessible as part of museum or gallery visits.
The Zagreb City Museum occupies a complex on Opatička Street that includes a former convent of the Poor Clares, the 12th-century Popov Tower and an old granary. Its inner courtyard and garden give a good sense of how the town's religious and residential buildings were arranged around enclosed spaces.
Klovićevi dvori Gallery, on Jesuit Square, is housed in a former Jesuit monastery built around an arcaded courtyard. Exhibitions are held inside, but the cloister-like courtyard is part of the experience and sometimes hosts summer events.
The Atelier Meštrović at Mletačka 8, the house and studio of sculptor Ivan Meštrović, has a small garden courtyard with sculptures. It reopened in December 2025 after earthquake repairs.
Passages of the Lower Town
Down in the Lower Town, the best-known covered passage is the Oktogon, which links Ilica with Petar Preradović Square. Built at the end of the 19th century, it has an octagonal glass dome and stained glass and is one of the city's most elegant Art Nouveau-era spaces. Other passages and yards connect streets around Ilica, Gajeva and Preradovićeva, and many now hold cafés, small shops and bars. Walking through them is a good way to experience the Lower Town's layered structure.
A self-guided courtyard walk
Start at Ban Jelačić Square and walk west along Ilica to the Oktogon passage, then cross Preradović Square, known locally as Cvjetni (Flower Square). Return to Ilica and take the funicular from Tomićeva Street up to the Strossmayer Promenade. From there, walk north to Jesuit Square and Klovićevi dvori, then along Ćirilometodska and Opatička, where many of the Dvorišta venues are located. Finish at the Stone Gate and walk down Radićeva to Tkalčićeva Street. The route takes about two hours with stops.
Courtesy and practical tips
Most courtyards in Zagreb are private homes or workplaces. If a gate is open, it is not an invitation to walk in, and residents understandably dislike strangers wandering into their yards. Stick to public spaces, museums and events, and keep noise down in residential streets, especially in the evening.
Some Upper Town buildings are still being repaired after the 2020 earthquakes, so you may find scaffolding, closed courtyards and changed routes. The cobbles are uneven and steep in places, so wear comfortable shoes. For Dvorišta, bring cash as well as a card, and arrive early in the evening for the best chance of a table.
