Getting to Hvar Town
Hvar Town sits on the south-west end of the island, and how you arrive matters for a short trip. Passenger catamarans run from Split directly to Hvar Town harbour, taking about an hour, and in summer they sell out, so book ahead with the operator. The car ferry from Split goes to Stari Grad on the island's north coast, about 20 km from Hvar Town by road; it takes around two hours and is the option if you bring a car.
For a weekend without a car, the catamaran is the obvious choice. Hvar Town's centre is compact and pedestrianised, and parking near the harbour is limited and expensive in season.
Day one morning: the fortress and the old town
Start early with the climb to the Fortica, also called the Spanish Fortress (Španjola), the 16th-century fort above the town. Paths and steps lead up through pine woods from the old town; allow 20 to 30 minutes at an easy pace. The view covers the harbour, the town roofs and the Pakleni Islands spread out to the west. There is an entrance fee to the fort itself, and it is worth going before the midday heat.
Back down in town, walk to St Stephen's Square (Trg svetog Stjepana), one of the largest squares in Dalmatia, with St Stephen's Cathedral at its eastern end. On the harbour side stands the Arsenal, a former Venetian building whose upper floor holds the Hvar Theatre, opened in 1612 and one of the oldest public theatres in Europe. The Franciscan monastery on the waterfront south-east of the centre is a short walk away and has a quiet cloister.
Day one afternoon and evening
Hvar Town's own beaches are small and rocky, stretching along the shore on both sides of the harbour. A swim along the promenade west of the centre is easy to fit in before evening.
Hvar has a reputation for nightlife, and in July and August the harbour bars stay loud until late. The town also enforces a code of public behaviour, with fines for walking around the centre in swimwear and for drinking or causing a disturbance in public spaces. Cover up when you leave the beach.
Day two: the Pakleni Islands
The Pakleni Islands are a chain of small wooded islands directly opposite Hvar Town. Taxi boats leave from the harbour through the day in season and run to the main islands, including Sveti Klement (with the Palmižana bay area) and Jerolim. The boats are signed on the waterfront with their destinations and return times; check the last boat back before you go.
There are no towns on the islands, just a few bays with beaches, moorings and seasonal restaurants. Bring water, shoes for rocky entries, and shade. In August the popular coves are crowded with yachts, so the less busy bays reached on foot from the landings are the better choice.
A half day on the quieter side of the island
If you have a car, scooter or are happy to use the local bus, the rest of the island is very different from Hvar Town:
- Stari Grad is the island's oldest town, founded by Greek colonists in the 4th century BC as Pharos. The Tvrdalj, the fortified summer house of the Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović, has a fish pond and inscriptions in the walls.
- Stari Grad Plain, between Stari Grad and Vrboska, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site: an agricultural landscape whose field divisions laid out by the ancient Greeks are still in use.
- Velo Grablje and Brusje, in the hills above Hvar Town, are old lavender villages. Velo Grablje holds a lavender festival in early summer.
Practical notes for a weekend
- Book catamaran tickets and accommodation early for June to September; weekends sell out first.
- Cards are widely accepted, but carry some cash for taxi boats and small kiosks.
- In spring and autumn the town is far calmer, many restaurants keep shorter hours, and boat services run less often. Check timetables before relying on a late return.
- The sun is strong and the island is exposed. Plan the fortress climb and any walking for early morning or late afternoon.
